Pimentón - the red building blocks of Spain

One of the first phrases I learned in Spanish was 'Un poquito más' (a little more),  as I could never quite add enough of the red spice to satisfy the Spanish palate. After all, the smoked red paprika shimmers brightly on só many plates in the Spanish cuisine.

However, after more than four months of cooking with this smokey flavour in Spain, I never appreciated it fully until I walked into the red-green fields and understood the process from farm, to factory, to table...   

De la Vera, Exrtemadura

To find what is seen as the world's finest smoked paprika, you have to go the region of Extremadura - literally translated into the two words extreme and hard - where sunny, hot skies meet the De la Vera valley. 

Here I walk beside stretch of green fields with what looks like red polka dots shining through. The red peppers hang heavy, as the small team of 10 workers start harvesting and filling their bags. 

I am standing in the field of 'bittersweet' peppers. There are two more varieties – The smaller, smooth skinned spicy pepper, and my favourite, the sweet small round pepper.   

The farmer explains passionately how the 'seccador' or smoke-dry-house works as we walk down the dusty road beside the field to meet Paco, who has been the maestro of the smoking house for 40 years. His eyes light up when I ask him to teach me more about his art - you can see the excitement and passion.

The oak fire burns 24/7, beneath the chestnut-floor completely covered in a thick layer of paprika peppers, slowly drying for 8 to 10 days where after it is ready to be ground to become the world famous Spanish smoked paprika. 

From here, a drive back into town takes us to the factory, where the smoky aromas hang thick in the air - which tells you where you are before you see the characteristic pretty pictures found on the Spanish paprika tins.

Firstly, seeds and skins are separated by machine. The process continues with a series of grinders. The first grind is simply between two rocks that quickly crushes once, in order to decrease friction which could burn the paprika. 

After A series of machines then grinds it into the fine powder, followed by a sieving process. The product is assessed and can be repeated up to 7 times to get the perfection that the De la Vera label on your tin promises.
      

Above all, the passion of the farmer and everyone involved in the process shines through - there is evident pride in their work, love for the heritage connected with the age old practice, and a passion for the product that is unforgettable. 

From the land of Citrus & Saffron...and pimentón!
Liezl
(Text & Photography)

Note: In South Africa smoked paprika from Spain must have a certification mark/sticker stating “D.O.P De la Vera”, assuring you that you are paying slightly more for a superior product.

Gracias Valladolid

After six weeks of living in Valladolid, Castille-y-León, I have learned to speak Spanish, cook Spanish, sleep less and dodge the bull! 

Valladolid - stylish, never ending days

The generous city has hosted me for the first 6 weeks of my studies. With its grand architecture, Valladolid used to be the capital of Spain, before it recently changed to Madrid.

Plaza Mayor in valladolid

At any time of the day almost all woman can be seen wearing high heels and babies are, in my opinion, far better dressed than the British Royals.

I strongly believe that there are two South African days in one Spanish day. The morning starts at 9 when the local mercado and shops open. With hot sunny days, the city stops for its siesta from 3 - 5 pm, with the sun setting just after ten. Hereafter children will play almost until midnight and while tapas and wine will be served until well after 2 in the morning.  I have grown accustomed to this, and sleep no longer feels like a necessity.

Speaking foreign

Mornings started with Spanish classes. The first day when Norma, my Spanish teacher, spoke to me, my throat abruptly closed on the spot! Classes progressed form 'my name is...' to the list of colours, how to tell time and finally how to conjugate each verbs into its numerous forms. 

It would be nearly impossible to get by if one cannot speak Spanish here, especially in smaller villages like my new home in Asturias.

Our Spanish class on the very last day

I can't speak Spanish fluently yet, but thanks to Norma, I have the confidence to attempt a Spanish conversation - while of course, make extensive use of sign language.  

Traditional & tapas

I have had the privilege of working in a local, traditional restaurant on the Plaza Mayor in Valladolid, cooking traditional food, attempting a Spanish dialog and watching some flamenco dancing!

Ole con Ole invited me in their kitchen and taught me basics such as croquettes, tortillas, paella, octopus and my personal favourite, Rabo de torro (oxtail).

The owners, Mamen and Carlos, made sure the kitchen staff taught me as much as possible, and on Friday and Saturday nights they would often open the floor for some flamenco dancing. 

Tradition is clearly important to them and bull fighting posters, clothes and pictures can be seen everywhere. On weekend nights at 12pm, the whole restaurant would come to a stop -  lights were turned down and candles lit and staff and guests sang to the Virgin Mary.  

Bull fighting display in Ole con Ole

At Ole con Ole I have come to understand the Spanish culture and experience the warmth of the people in Spain. 

Traveling in Castille-y-León
The region of Castille-y-León is so called because it holds so many medieval castles. I have seen these beautiful works of art all over the region - Segovia, Salamanca, Simancas, Penafiel and Medina del Campo.

Castilla in Medina del Campo

Furthermore the region has allowed me to be a spectator of Corte de torro (dodging the bull),partaking in running with the bull, petting the bull - at El Capricho - and tasting the bull.

Corte del toros

In retrospect, this was a once in a life time experience, in every single form of the word!

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed to my time here int he land of Citrus and Saffron.
Liezl
(Text and pgotography)

Galicia’s perfect match – wine & seafood

In the early hours of Friday morning we board a bus to Galicia. We’ve packed our raincoats and swimsuits, as we know a typical day there can easily bring 4 seasons to its shore.

After 2 hours the typical Castille-y-León scenery of golden, straw coloured fields start a transformation and after a 5 hour drive I am surrounded by lush green forestry that seems to go on forever!

Galicia on sea

I blink my eyes twice to be sure I haven’t been teleported to Knysna, back in South Africa, but the water seems bluer and the exotic seafood on the menu cannot be found back home.

As we board the boat we sit down for a seafood feast. Platters arrive continuously and I am already baffled by the first - Barnacles. I squint at the … well it seems to possibly be an ingredient to a Harry Potter potion. Although I've seen pictures of the “percebes” before, I am not sure how to approach it. After a few laughs and some guidance, I know to break off the tip slowly to expose the slightly orange flesh and pull it out to finally eat the prawn-sized meat.

Next, the sweetest crab meat I have ever tasted! Packaged in the smaller red-orange crab shell, it’s worth every minute of work to  extract the meat. It is followed by its bigger brother, the spidercrab.

The table also enjoys mussels with a fresh onion and sweet pepper, and of course the famous Galician ‘pulpo’, or octopus – my personal favourite!

The Percebeiro food group also shows us the entire 'catch of the day' from clams, razor clams, rare giagantic blue lobster and oysters. This, and só much more is exported all over the country daily.

Mussel must see

We stop at the wooden floating island – one of the many surrounding us. These mussel rafts in Galicia produces 40 % of the worlds mussels. Naturally clinging to the ropes in the water, or gathered from nearby rocks in winter, the mussels grow here for 9 months before they are classified.

The proud fisherman tells us more detail about the process and as we cruise away we see hundreds of other mussel rafts surrounding us.

Wine to match

The second day starts with the anticipated rain – but the grey clouds only make for great photographs of the green vineyards we visit.

The first Bodega or wine farm Terras Gauda introduces us to vertical growing vineyards -  a must, as  horizontal growing, or leaves flat on top, will cause the vineyards to rot because of the high rainfall. Here the white Albarñio grape treats our taste buds well!

Afterwards it is up the mountain hills to the Altas de totrona Bodega. Here I am found drinking the voted best white wine of last year and, perhaps blowing me away more, an astonishingly beautiful sight.

On the last day we head inland to the valley of El Bierzo and we’re all very pleased to meet the Mencia grape. Here I am also treated to preserved products such as roasted sweet red products, ‘drunken cherries’ and my personal favorite, triple cooked chestnuts in sweet syrup thanks to Prada A Tope.

We arrive back in Castille-y-León just after the sun has set on another amazing weekend.

With a bottle of wine in my luggage, memories of great seafood and a heart filled with gratitude I say goodnight to the land of Citrus and Saffron…

Liezl
(text & photography)

Letting go of butter & cream

I have been trained by the rules of French cuisine and I abide by Julia Child's rule for most of my life, " If you're afraid of butter, use cream!"

Since moving to Spain I have been uncomfortable, looking for my safety net of butter and cream and it's taken me some time to get accustomed to a new pantry. Thus far, studying the basics and traditional Spanish recipes, I have learned a few things...

To start:
Any dish starts with 4 basic ingredients - always! The base of the pan or pot is covered with a generous layer olive oil, obviously no butter. Then onion (cebolla), garlic (ajo) and red / green bell peppers (piementon) is sautéd. This is often all cut very finely to create a sofrito - a softly sautéd paste.


On your plate:
The meat added to the dishes is mainly Jamón Iberico (Iberico cured ham) and a choice of lamb (cordero) and rabbit (conejo) is also common on any menu. Bacalao, cod, is the most common fish, and a great variety of fresh seafood can be found anywhere.


The size of the plate:
South Africa is 'rys-vleis-en-artappels' (rice, meat and potatoes) nation. I quite like having my own big plate of food and 'digging in'.  Therefore I have been confused to keep on getting 'tapas' at restaurants, flavorful miniatrure dishes. It has taken me some time to realize the advantage - you can have 4 or 5 different dishes per night, simmilar to a tasting menu!

To finish:
"Mas aceite" (More oil!)
In my restaurant I have learned two things: 1.There can never be enough olive oil to dress a dish. 2. Then add some more olive oil just to be safe! I can't remember cooking with any other fat since I have been here - butter and cream seemed to have disappeared. Fat from Chorizo or Jamón however covers the palate with a flavourful fattiness.

Of course, smoked paprika is the last touch to round off the dish and again the plate.

It might be taking some time to train my palate get accustomed to a new flavours and texture, but I am enjoying every minute of  the tasting sensations!

From the land of Citrus and Saffron
Liezl

Taking it all in!

Week 1
It's started with a bang! From our arrival at the residence up until now it's been a race to take in as much as possible...

Domingo, Sunday, has arrived and it marks the end of my first week in Spain - along with it, it brings anticipation! Heaps of excitement builds inside as the thought of what I've learned, seen and experienced in one week has been more so much than I expected, I can't imagine what an entire 21 weeks will amount to.

Above every sight, smell and taste I have been introduced to, I have been introduced to an amazing variety of new amigos. Each one of them brings their own flair to the program and by not introducing them, you would miss half of the program.

North America

Miriam Much - United States, Seattle
My short companion, with a lot of smiles and a kind heart, Miriam is always cheering up the group. She clearly has a lot of passion for what she does and has a special place for each chef that has thought her.

Nick Palamaro - United States, New York

Nicky, student from the CIA is an obvious hard worker. Back in America he has spent a lot of time studying Spanish in order to communicate better in the American, or as he says in order for the Spanish not to make fun of him in American kitchens!

Carla Castro - Canada
Currently studying in Canada, she has become the groups translator with her Portuguese / Spanish background and Brazilian roots. Carla has instantly become the 'mother figure' in the group!

South America

Sabine Caubarére - Argentina 
Originally from Uruguay, another saving grace as her first language is obviously Spanish. It is however important to note that every country's Spanish dialect differs.

Europe
Ciaran Doyle - Ireland
With his milky, satin skin, he is surely the entertainer in the group. He also happens to sit next to me in Spanish classes, and I often hide behind his quick understanding and learning of the language.

Sandro Zinggeler - Switserland
Sandro, the most energetic of the group and often found singing, speaks Swiss German, which is closest to my own mother tongue, Afrikaans.

Sylvester Koscuik - Poland
Sylvester is quiet and hard working. Naturally Sylvester and Blaz (Eslovenia) became quick friends with no language barriers.

Blaz Kostansjek - Eslovenia
The long man from Eslovenia with the hard accent, turned out to be the friendly guy who seems eager to learn.

Asia

Kouta Koubayashi - Japan
Without a doubt the best mannered person I have met in a long time. Kouta is always seen revising recipes or learning Spanish with his dictionary. Although he doesn't speak English and only basic Spanish, he fits in the group perfectly!

Nigel Lobo - India
Definitely the man with everyone's favourite accent. I admire him for currently learning his 5th language.

Samuel Quan - Singapore
A short guy that is always seen smiling and laughing. Sam's first language, Mandarin, is world's apart from Spanish - a great effort from him for learning a new language.

Shao and Shu

With a bit of a struggle the language barrier, their culture is the furthest away from my own Westernized culture. Shao is always found sitting about until the early morning hours, obviously still struggling with the time zone differences. 

And finally South Africa, and the Southern part Africa is represented! Wearing the South African flag with pride and cooking my way through Spain, I am having the time of my life!

From the land of citrus and saffron
Liezl

Collecting the lotto-prize

I have won the lotto and tomorrow I go in to collect my prize.

As with every other person that has won the lottery before me, I am now in the hesitant-phase. The moment before you claim what was given to you, and you start to imagine…

What will it be like? What will it be like once you get there? How will this prize affect you now, in his glorious moment, but also your entire future? We are after all the sum total of moments we experience.

In the two months leading up to my departure tomorrow, I have spent hours upon hours imagining what the country looks like, what I will say when I first meet my expedition-companions, what I will taste and smell.

For the next five months the only thing I am sure of is that everything will change. From the view from my room, to my family, to my dinner at night.

And so, with a combination of excitement, hesitance and an over active imagination, my expedition begins…

The language everyone speaks

I step out of my car that booms with Julio Iglesias and fall into a two way conversation with myself that might resemble something Spanish. I know I’m getting strange looks from the people in Cape Town, but I’m concentrating far too hard to notice.

I’ve been told that the Spanish language is ‘easy to learn’ compared to Italian or French and ‘resembles words in the English language’.

In the past month this strange, foreign tongue hasn't come naturally and it’s certainly not been easy. Although Spanish words might look like those in the English dictionary, my tongue and mind spasm as I try to pronounce letters different to what it says on the page.

Reminder to self: C pronounced “th”, LL pronounced “j”, V sometimes becomes “b” – although I’m not sure when.

I’m frantically trying to translate and remember every Spanish word I can find.  This highly impossible task has now been narrowed down to every word in the Spanish food dictionary. (My last hope is to remember this sentence in case of emergency :“ ¡Necesito un chocolate!”, translated, I need a chocolate!)

Before I start hyperventilating about being lost for 5 months and not understanding anyone around me, I remind myself that the journey ahead is about tasting a culture. Perhaps I will learn more by just looking at locals prepare seafood or simply peel potatoes for patatas fritas.

I remind myself that everyone knows how to come together around one table, not to talk but to share food, to break bread together.  

I remind myself that food speaks a different language, one that speaks to your being, one that I and every other person in this world can speak fluently.

Liezl